Natural deodorant for women: an honest guide

Is natural deodorant for women different from men's?

Not really. Look past the colour of the pack and the ingredients that do the work are the same: sodium bicarbonate or magnesium hydroxide for odour, and starches and clays for moisture.

What usually changes is the scent and the story told about it. Florals and fruits go in the "women's" aisle, and woods and spice go in the "men's". Some Australian brands have dropped the split entirely. Exposed Naturals, for example, describes its deodorants as made for all genders, with gender-neutral scents.

We've done the same. Our tins are named after moods, not people. A bright lemongrass, a cool peppermint or a calm lavender suits whoever likes it. So if you've been shopping only in the women's range, widen the net. Your perfect tin might be sitting under a navy label.

Here's what's worth your attention instead:

• The odour-control ingredient, because it decides how your skin gets on.
• The format: balm, paste, stick or roll-on.
• The scent, ideally with every oil named.
• Your life stage, because hormones change sweat and odour over the years.

Why can women's underarm odour smell different?

Partly chemistry. A study of 49 men and women found that women's underarm sweat contained far more of an odourless "sulphur" precursor than men's, while men's had relatively more of a precursor for a cheesy, acidic smell.

That study, published in Chemical Senses in 2009, followed the volunteers over three years. Skin bacteria turn these odourless precursors into smell. In women, that leans towards a compound the researchers describe as smelling of tropical fruit and onion. In men, it leans towards cheesy, rancid notes. The researchers also found huge variation between individuals, and suggested the differences may be genetic or hormonal.

So what does that mean for you? Two practical things:

• Odour isn't a judgement on your hygiene. Sweat itself is odourless. The smell comes when skin bacteria break it down, and everyone's mix is a little different.
• What works for your partner may not work for you. If their tin doesn't suit you, it's chemistry, not failure. Try another base or another scent before you give up.

Do periods, pregnancy and menopause change how deodorant works?

They can change how much you sweat and when, so your deodorant routine might need to change with them. The deodorant itself doesn't change.

Your cycle. In the second half of the menstrual cycle (the luteal phase), resting body temperature sits about 0.3 to 0.5°C higher, and the point at which you start sweating moves up with it (Gagnon and Kenny, Journal of Physiology review). So if you feel warmer in the days before a period, that's expected, and an earlier reapply on those days is perfectly normal.

Pregnancy. The NHS says you're likely to feel warmer than usual and sweat more in pregnancy, because of hormonal changes and extra blood flow to the skin (NHS). Its tips are simple: loose, breathable natural fibres, a cool room, and washing often. If you're pregnant or breastfeeding and unsure about essential oils, check with your midwife, GP or pharmacist before you start a new scented product.

Perimenopause and menopause. Around 3 in 4 women have hot flushes and night sweats around the time of menopause (Jean Hailes). A flush can come on suddenly, usually lasts 1 to 5 minutes, and can bring sweating with it. A deodorant can't touch the flush itself. Jean Hailes covers the options for managing hot flushes, and a GP is the person to talk to if they're affecting your life. What a deodorant can do is help you feel fresher in between.

Here's how those stages tend to play out day to day:

What should women look for on a natural deodorant label?

Read the ingredients list on the back. In Australia, cosmetic ingredients must be listed on the container in descending order by mass or volume, so the first few do most of the work (ACCC Product Safety).

Three checks take about ten seconds:

• Bicarb or magnesium? If sodium bicarbonate is near the top, it's a bicarb formula. Magnesium hydroxide is the common alternative.
• How is the scent listed? The labelling rules allow a scent to appear simply as "fragrance" or "parfum" (Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020). If you'd like to know exactly what you're smelling, look for each essential oil named.
• What's the base? Butters and oils such as shea, coconut and sunflower make a balm glide. Arrowroot, tapioca and kaolin clay absorb moisture.

Bicarb or magnesium? Most people get on with bicarb, and it's the classic odour-control ingredient. It's also alkaline, at about pH 8.3, while healthy skin sits at about pH 4.5 to 5.3 (Healthline), so a few people find it leaves them red or itchy. That's more likely on freshly shaved skin. If that's happened to you, a magnesium formula is the place to start. Our buyer's guide to the best natural deodorant in Australia compares both, with prices per 100 g.

A word on shaving. Shaving and deodorant don't mix well straight away. If you shave your underarms, try shaving at night and applying your balm in the morning, on skin that's had time to settle. We suggest keeping balm off freshly shaved, broken or irritated skin.

Is aluminium-free deodorant better for breast health?

There's no evidence that it makes a difference. Cancer Council Australia says there's no evidence that deodorants or antiperspirants cause cancer, and that the breast cancer scare began as an email hoax (Cancer Council).

This one comes up a lot in women's deodorant guides, often with a scary headline. So let's be clear. Choosing aluminium-free is a perfectly good choice. You might prefer how it feels, like a shorter ingredient list, or simply not want to block sweat. Fear just isn't a good reason to choose it.

It's also worth knowing what you're giving up. An antiperspirant reduces sweat. A natural deodorant doesn't. It helps neutralise odour and absorbs some moisture, so you'll still feel damp on a big day. That's the trade, and plenty of us are happy with it.

Which Freshie Folk tin suits you?

Pick by mood, not by gender. All three of our balms share the same base and the same 50 g tin. Only the essential oils change.

The base is shea butter, arrowroot powder, sodium bicarbonate, coconut oil, kaolin clay, cold pressed sunflower oil (high oleic), beeswax and vitamin E oil. We make it by hand in small batches in Freshwater, NSW. Every oil in every tin is named. Mood in a tin.

• Lemongrass Lift, if you want bright and zesty. Lemongrass, tea tree, cedarwood and lavender.
• Wild Awake, if you like a cool, fresh start. Peppermint, eucalyptus and tea tree.
• Classic Botanic, if you'd rather feel calm and grounded. Lavender, rosemary and cedarwood.

Each tin is $14.95, or The Three Moods set is $38 for all three. If you'd like a scent for the morning and another for the evening, that's the easy way to do it.

When are we the wrong pick? Our balms contain bicarb, so if bicarb has bothered you before, start with a magnesium formula. And if you'd rather avoid essential oils right now, for any reason, choose an unscented product. We'd rather you find the right tin than buy the wrong one from us.

Not sure yet? The Mood Sampler Bundle ($21.95) has a sample tin of each scent, a full-size Underarm Clay Mask and a bamboo applicator. Our short guide to choosing a mood can help too.

How do you switch to natural deodorant as a woman?

The same way anyone does. Patch test first, apply to clean, dry skin, and give it a week or two before you judge.

1. Patch test. Try a little on a small patch of skin for a day or two. If it stays comfortable, carry on.
2. Pick a calm week. A week without a big event or a long-haul flight takes the pressure off.
3. Start clean and dry. Pat your underarms completely dry after a shower. Balm works best on dry skin.
4. Use a pea-sized amount. Warm it on your fingertips and press it in. Our guide on how to apply deodorant balm shows how.
5. Plan around shaving. Shave at night, apply in the morning.
6. Reapply when your body asks. Before-period days, warm afternoons and hot flushes are all fair reasons to rinse, pat dry and apply again.
7. Stop if it doesn't feel right. Redness or discomfort that doesn't go away means it isn't your formula. Try a different base rather than pushing through.

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